Proper Tree Planting For More 'Fruitful' Results As Featured on Texas A&M AgriLife By Adam Russell, Communication Specialist for Texas A&M AgriLife  Above: Peach trees are among the most popular fruit trees planted. Establishing fruit trees takes some effort, but these time-tested tips from a Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Service expert can guide the way. Larry Stein, Ph.D., professor and Regents Fellow in the Texas A&M Department of Horticultural Sciences and AgriLife Extension fruit specialist in Uvalde, said now is the time to plant, and homeowners should choose the right tree and take the correct steps to establish and care for their fruit trees in the first critical years. Winter is the Time to Plant Most Fruit Trees When it comes to fruit trees, Stein said to plant in late December through February. The key is for trees to be totally dormant at the time of planting. Planting trees in early winter helps them establish some root growth before they break dormancy in the spring, Stein said. That initial root growth can make a big difference during harsh summer conditions. “When people plant their fruit trees in the early spring, they may struggle because they haven’t initiated good root growth to help them absorb moisture and nutrients during a stressful summer. Stein said the late December through February time frame for planting works for peaches, pears, figs and other fruit trees. Deciding What Fruit Tree to Plant Stein suggests referring to the Aggie horticulture fruit site when choosing varieties for planting. The site contains comprehensive fact sheets on different trees and gives fruit tree variety recommendations based on location. Once you’ve narrowed the options, visit a reputable tree nursery and choose a medium-sized tree – 3-5 feet tall – so the recommended cutback at planting is less severe. “I prefer planting bare-root fruit trees rather than container trees as they are less expensive and will grow better. The challenge is that bare-root trees are getting harder to find.” Also, Stein reccommends to inspect the tree for injury or signs of stress — and don’t accept a subpar tree. Where to Plant Fruit Trees Poor draining soil can cause problems for fruit trees. Low spots or areas that stay saturated are poor transplant locations. “You want well-drained soil and not a spot where water collects. That can drown the tree.” Stein said soil berms — rounded mounds of soil, mulch or other material built on a level area — can be used to encircle the tree about 18-24 inches from the tree’s base to keep water at bay. But low spots, even if they drain well, are discouraged because cold air settles there. Stein also recommends placing the tree on the north side of the property, so it stays cold during dormancy and remains dormant longer. “Plant fruit trees in an area where they will avoid late-day sun, which can contribute to earlier bud breaks. You want the tree to stay dormant as long as possible to avoid tree or fruit damage...” How to Plant Fruit Trees Before planting, knock off the soil around the tree’s roots, which, in container trees, typically includes peat moss and perlite or a light mix. Bare-root trees will not have any soil around the roots. Inspect the roots and cut them back if they are wrapped around the root ball to prevent the tree from becoming rootbound. Bare root trees establish better, but they can be difficult to find because most tree nurseries primarily stock container trees. Dig a hole the size of the root system, typically 12-18 inches across, and deep enough to plant the tree so that its root collar — the distinct line where the stem meets the root ball — is level with the ground. “There is a distinct color change at the root collar. You don’t want it to be any deeper than that.” Then, fill in the hole with the original soil. Water the tree well to settle the soil around the roots and then cut the tree back hard. Be sure to cut the trees back hard at planting as doing so will greatly improve tree livability.  Above: One of the most important aspects of fruit tree maintenance is to allow the tree to progress at its own pace and to avoid overwatering and over tending it. PHOTO CREDIT: TEXAS A&M AGRILIFE In the case of pecan trees, cut them back to 42 inches with all side branches removed to the main stem. Fruit trees should be cut back to 18-24 inches and all limbs cut back to the stem. “It goes against some recommendations, but the reduced root system and the cutback will force the tree to go into growth mode.” Weed-and Grass-Free Zone Stein also suggests clearing weeds and grass from around fruit trees for at least the first five years. This reduces competition for water and nutrients critical for the tree’s development. Kill out or manually remove weeds and grass within a 2- to 3-foot diameter circle around the tree. “Use glyphosate or another herbicide that will kill all grasses and broadleaf weeds to the root. You want bare soil around the tree to minimize competition for the tree, but make sure the herbicide does not contact tree leaves.” Grow tubes or aluminum foil may be used to keep the herbicide off the tree’s trunk when chemicals are applied. After the first year, mulch can be added within the circle to help weed control. Avoid Killing it With Kindness One of the most important aspects of fruit tree maintenance is to allow the tree to progress at its own pace and to avoid overwatering and overtending it. After proper transplanting, cutback and weed eradication, it’s important to leave the tree alone until it starts to grow. “It’s important to just let the tree do its thing. Most people kill trees with kindness at that point. Overwatering is probably the number one cause of death. Trees don’t need much water while inactive. They can go 4-6 weeks without water when dormant, and normal rain usually provides the needed moisture.” When the tree begins growing, keep it well-watered — typically once a week with 1 inch of water, depending on soil type. “When the tree is first planted, the water needs to be placed right around the tree. As the tree grows, the roots move away from the tree. We think the best roots start at the canopy edge or drip line and go out about one and a half times the tree’s height.” Fertilize, Fertilize, Fertilize In May, after the tree shows 8-10 inches of growth, fertilize it with a cup of ammonium sulfate with 21% nitrogen. Organic 3% fertilizer can be used but apply seven cups to reach the 21% nitrogen requirement. Stein instructs to add water in the fertilizer 12-18 inches from the trunk of the tree. “The soil berm and weed-free zone can be useful to let you know where to spread the fertilizer. You might want to put the fertilizer outside the berm to ensure it’s not too close to the trunk.” Continue to water and weed around the tree and ramp up the fertilization regimen in year two with a cup of fertilizer in March, April, May and June. In year three, double the fertilizer regimen with two cups of ammonium sulfate in those months to push the tree’s growth. “Follow this regimen, and you will be amazed at the tree you can grow in three years.” Provide a half pound of 21% fertilizer per inch of trunk diameter at bud break in subsequent years for the life of the tree. Give the tree another half-pound of fertilizer in May if it shows a fruit crop. Do not apply the second round of fertilizer if the tree is not showing fruit. “Those are the recommendations for the life of the tree. There are variety-specific training and pruning regimens we recommend in the fact sheets, and you’ll need to be aware of potential seasonal disease and pest issues, but that is a good start to successfully establishing fruit trees.”  Above: Bare root trees establish better, but they can be difficult to find because most tree nurseries primarily stock container trees. PHOTO CREDIT: TEXAS A&M AGRILIFE |
